Taking a closer look at the Cornish lights

The Association of Lighthouse Keepers’ Cornwall event continued on Thursday and it kicked off with a return to the National Maritime Museum in Falmouth.

This time we’d hired a meeting room so the ALK’s South West Regional Rep, Ken Trethewey, who is also the author of ‘The Lighthouses of Cornwall and Devon: A Narrative’ among other books, could share his knowledge and personal experience of lighthouses in Cornwall and some further afield too.

Ken kicking off his excellent talk

It was a great presentation, starting off with a picture of St Catherine’s Point Lighthouse in Fowey. I was banned from answering the ‘where is this lighthouse?’ question! Ken then went on to talk about Wolf Rock Lighthouse and the amazing opportunity he’d had to fly by helicopter to the lighthouse and take a look inside.

Ken is one of the original lighthouse baggers and so was part of the very lucky – and much smaller – group who would have actually visited the lights while there were still keepers working in them.

Ken also speaks very fondly of Eddystone Lighthouse and the lesser known Plymouth Breakwater Lighthouse, which he was able to organise an ALK trip to see a couple of months ago. Hopefully we can do a re-run of that next year and I’ll make sure I can join next time too. I call it a perk of the job!

The second part of Ken’s talk was fascinating when he delved into his family history and the discovery that three of his ancestors were lighthouse keepers with a particularly close connection to South Foreland Lighthouse. Working alongside his brother, he has released a new book, ‘Light on the Forelands’ which details their findings.

After an enlightening morning it was time for me to get some fresh air so I headed to Helston on the bus for a walk around The Loe, Cornwall’s largest natural freshwater lake. The Loe is only separated from the sea by a sand bar which forms part of the circular walk. No lighthouses there, but still some great views nonetheless.

The Loe Bar which separates The Loe from the sea

Arriving back in Helstan just in time, it was then a matter of journeying south to the Lizard Lighthouse. Unfortunately the Lizard Lighthouse Visitor Centre is currently closed with no signs of it reopening. This obviously caused us a problem for getting in, but once again Nick from Trinity House offered to help out and we got permission for access to the lighthouse only, not the Visitor Centre.

Lizard Lighthouse

There’s something about lighthouses that are frequently visited and very popular. I’m sure I’ve mentioned in at least one blog post before that my affections generally always lie with those that are often overlooked, usually because you can’t just drive to them and it takes more than a short walk. Lizard is, dare I say it, one of those that I just find too popular, but it was actually nice to get inside the tower knowing that it would only be our group in there and it wouldn’t be a matter of battling past numerous others.

The view across the keepers’ houses to the second tower

It certainly is a nice-looking lighthouse though and the addition of the second tower as well adds more visual interest. Perhaps as evidence of its popularity, Nick showed us a cupboard on the ground floor where they store a range of sizes of plimsolls as they had people turning up wearing completely inappropriate footwear.

The lens in Lizard Lighthouse is fantastic and rotates incredibly fast. It gives off an incredibly powerful light, which can be seen for an impressive 26 nautical miles, which will presumably be largely to do with it being on the most southerly point of the UK and aiding navigation of both the English Channel and vessels arriving from the wider Atlantic to the west.

Lizard’s impressive lens

Ken actually stepped in again at one point to describe in more detail an old light mechanism that is contained in one of the cupboards at the lighthouse. This was the old Carbon Arc Lamp used in the lighthouse from 1903 to 1936. Lizard was one of the first lighthouses to have electricity and this method of powering the lighthouse involved applying a high voltage of electricity to the two carbon rods, which created a permanent spark between them. I’d never seen one of these before.

The Carbon Arc Lamp previously used at Lizard Lighthouse

Of course Joe the Drone was up to his usual tricks.

A Joe’s eye view of Lizard Lighthouse

One extra little gem that we discovered while coming back down the ladder from the lamp room was a tiny hatch. When you lifted the little door you were greeted with a sign saying ‘Don’t be nosey’.

Sometimes these little touches can help make a visit more memorable – and enjoyable too 🙂

12 hours of lighthouses: it’s a bagger’s life for me!

Continuing the lighthouse-related fun alongside 21 other Association of Lighthouse Keepers members, there was plenty to do on Wednesday, starting out in Falmouth.

With any potential for internal access to St Anthony Lighthouse ruled out, I’d followed the lead of those who had organised the first ALK trip to Cornwall and arranged a boat to sail around the lighthouse. We’d chartered a fairly small boat with Cornish Pleasure Cruises that would be more than big enough to take the whole group, but we were delighted to be upgraded to their wonderful Dixie Belle which could accommodate up to 100 people so there was masses of space for us to spread out.

On the boat trip we were joined by Chris Nicholson and his wife. Chris is the author of one of the very first lighthouse books I owned, The Rock Lighthouses of Britain. It’s a fantastic book that’s recently been updated and even includes a few pictures taken by yours truly. He’s made my already pretty good (if I do say so myself) picture of Longstone Lighthouse with seals in the foreground look stunning!

The charter was due to only last an hour, but after setting off it seemed the skipper George was in no hurry at all, which was even better. We got a closer look at some of the massive military ships moored up there, and we poked our heads (or the boat) around towards Falmouth Bay too with it’s various beaches. There was some rather amusing commentary happening too, which seemed to make my ALK friend Anne and I chuckle far more than it did anyone else. Clearly we are very easily pleased!

This little detour gave us a longer run up to St Anthony which was no problem at all. The skipper pointed out The Manacles to the south. These are a series of rocks that ships entering Falmouth, travelling from the west, really need to watch out for. St Anthony Lighthouse assists with exactly that by displaying a flashing red sector light (as well as it’s normal white light) 24 hours a day to ensure ships take the safe course around the Manacles.

Approaching St Anthony Lighthouse

St Anthony really is a beautiful lighthouse and the view from the sea is definitely the best angle to capture that from. When the sun shines on the brilliant white tower with it’s black detail at the top and all the lush green vegetation behind it, it’s just like a little piece of paradise.

St Anthony Lighthouse

We had plenty of time to gaze at the lighthouse, chat amongst ourselves, buy tea or coffee on board, and generally enjoy the sunshine before we set off back for Falmouth. More funny commentary followed, much to mine and Anne’s delight.

Bidding farewell to the Dixie Belle and her crew, we set off for the National Maritime Museum. The museum doesn’t contain a huge amount of lighthouse-specific information, but the thing I found most interesting about it is that the bottom two floors of the building are actually underwater at high tide. It was around mid-tide when we arrived so we could look through the really tall windows and see that some was under water at that point.

The window showing the height of the tide at the National Maritime Museum

What I liked most about it was that it reminded me a bit of a rock lighthouse. It’s a circular building that’s got lower sections that are often underwater. It’s really very interesting – or at least I thought so!

With Joe the Drone missing out on this boat trip, he was obviously keen to get his little blades out and about to take a look too. Leaving Falmouth behind it was time to go for the land-based approach to St Anthony. After the long drive (and ferry ride) to get there, you are rewarded with a really beautiful short walk to reach the lighthouse gate. Along the walk there are some fabulous views. My favourite was probably looking north towards St Mawes with the nearby Little and Great Molunan beaches looking perfect.

At the end of the path you reach the gate to the lighthouse, which is really very close, but at the same time so inaccessible. The cottage here is available to rent through Rural Retreats, but it is rather expensive. At Anthony Lighthouse is, of course, the one that appears in the title sequence of the very enjoyable TV series Fraggle Rock. If only the Fraggles and Doozers were seen wandering about outside the lighthouse, it would be sure to make for quite an attraction!

St Anthony Lighthouse from the land

Joe the Drone went for his long-awaited spin.

St Anthony Lighthouse and the Manacle rocks in the distance

The joy of Cornwall lies in many sights and other things, but not really in the time it takes to get between places. Living on the north coast of Scotland, I should really be used to long distances, but the roads in Cornwall (and the number of cars) puts it on a whole different level. The evening was reserved for a visit to Pendeen Lighthouse and it took a good amount of time to get there from St Anthony. Fortunately though there was a little time to spare after arriving so aside from chatting to some of the other early arrivers, I spent some time making myself comfy on the grass with views along the glorious coastline to the south west.

My view while relaxing at Pendeen

Meanwhile Joe the Drone had a fly about.

A Joe’s eye view of Pendeen Lighthouse

When the time arrived we wandered down to the lighthouse and were greeted by Nick who had been a huge help in getting us access to a few lighthouses on this trip, and the one we’d run last year too. Nick is a Senior Technician for Trinity House and without his help getting into Pendeen and the others to follow just wouldn’t have happened. I should add at this point that getting access isn’t as simple as asking Nick. The final decision lies with Trinity House and the ALK’s insurance is a requirement of this – just in case anyone thought it was easy!

On the wonderfully sweeping approach to Pendeen Lighthouse

It was a wonderfully calm evening with sunshine and very little wind. Apparently that’s unusual for Pendeen which is quite frequently shrouded in fog.

Pendeen Lighthouse

Pendeen Lighthouse will shortly be undergoing some changes with the lens being removed and the light source being replaced by a LED. This is becoming a widespread activity as part of the lighthouse authorities’ obligation to remove mercury from their lighthouses in the next few years. There are other ways around removing the lenses with a LED being installed inside the lens instead, but the decision of what to do with each lighthouse is entirely up to Trinity House. There have been, and no doubt will continue to be, arguments over this, and it’s not something I want to get caught up on. In this case I’m just glad I was able to see the lens in situ.

Pendeen Lighthouse lens

I actually really enjoyed visiting the lighthouse in the evening. This was arranged purely for practical reasons around Nick’s availability, but it was quieter by that point and the lower sunlight makes everything feel a lot more chilled out.

Alongside Nick we had Bill and Dan so we were split into two groups for looking around. I was very amused at the display of lamps that Nick was able to show us from the big, old ones getting progressively smaller and smaller until it was just the tiny LEDs. It was amusing because the group insisted on taking pictures of every single one with Nick doing his best to attempt to keep out of the pictures.

We had plenty of time to look around and once we were all done we headed along to Pendeen village for a big group meal. I’d phoned ahead and thankfully the North Inn were able to accommodate us. It’s always a really important part of ALK events, I find. Following the meal we popped back to Pendeen to get some pictures of the light in action.

Pendeen Lighthouse in the late evening

While in the Land’s End area we also stopped off there to see which lights we could see. Wolf Rock’s light is far more visible from that point at night than it is by day, and of course the light on Longships could be seen as well as a couple of buoys.

The impressively bright light of Wolf Rock Lighthouse as seen from Land’s End
The red light of Longships Lighthouse

It had been a busy but good day with some excellent variety, and some laughs along the way too 🙂

The highs and lows of rock lighthouse bagging

With any trip that involves a boat there is always the risk that it just won’t happen because of poor sea conditions. It’s just the way it is and something you grow accustomed to accepting. It’s just never guaranteed and, for some reason, it seems this is often the case moreso for visiting rock lighthouses than any others in my experience. I recall preparing the post ‘To Skerryvore or not to Skerryvore‘ as that really was touch and go as to whether we would make it there or not.

The beginning of this week was almost a repeat of that, although actually this time the boatman wasn’t even sure that we should attempt it. For the first day of the Association of Lighthouse Keepers‘ Cornwall event I’d organised a trip to see Wolf Rock Lighthouse with the same boat going out twice to make sure the whole group got a chance to see it.

Then Sunday came and I received the news from Mark at MJ Marine in Penzance to say that the weather wasn’t looking good for Monday, but he did suggest merging the Wolf Rock Lighthouse trip with the Longships Lighthouse boat trip we were due to do on Tuesday. It seemed like a sensible plan so we went with that. I was tempted to call this post ‘Wolfie Longships’ to reflect the merging of the two into one trip, but resisted as I know not everyone ‘gets’ my odd ways, so I’ve buried it in here!

However, more bad news came on Monday afternoon when Mark reported that the conditions weren’t looking good for Tuesday or for the rest of the week for reaching the lighthouses. He offered a sail around Tater Du Lighthouse instead which was just a short 30-minute trip to the west of Penzance. This was all going to happen and then, just after 10pm on Monday night, I hear from Mark again to say that the forecast had improved and it might be possible to run the Wolf Rock and Longships trips after all. He suggested we meet at 8am in the morning and make a decision.

Gathering at the boat the following day, Mark seemed fairly confident the first group could make it to both rock lighthouses, but wasn’t sure if the second group would. As someone due to be on the first trip I would normally have been delighted, but as the event organiser it is always different and one of the worst situations is when half a group get to do something and the other half don’t.

Anyway, we set off on the first trip and it was a bit bumpy in places and quite wet too, but it wasn’t awful by any means. I certainly didn’t feel unsafe at any point. It took a long time to get around to Land’s End where Longships Lighthouse came into view, but we had a more remote fish to fry prior to that. Rather amusingly, one of the group members spotted what he thought was Wolf Rock Lighthouse, and although he was convinced it was the tower it turned out to be just a buoy. It’s unlikely he’ll live that down anytime soon!

More time passed and then Wolf Rock was there, slowly getting closer and closer until we arrived. What a sight it was to see. I recall a couple of other ALK members mentioning that although it was very overcast that morning the sky suited these amazingly remote rock lighthouses, giving them a far more dramatic look.

Getting closer to Wolf Rock Lighthouse

The conical beacon that sits next to Wolf Rock Lighthouse was the lighthouse’s predecessor and is actually what makes this one more recognisable at Wolf Rock. Now that the Trinity House-owned rock lighthouses feature a helideck on top, it can be hard to tell the difference between them.

Never one to miss out on a bit of excitement, Joe the Drone went for a fly around too and put the rest of our pictures to shame with the results as usual!

A Joe the Drone capture

Next we were off to Longships Lighthouse. This one is visible from Land’s End so doesn’t quite have the remote feel about it that Wolf Rock has. What it lacks in relative remoteness it certainly makes up for in coastal geology though. From Land’s End it looks like it is surrounded by some rocks, but when you get a closer look you realise just how many rocks there are littered around. It’s quite beautiful to see.

Longships Lighthouse
Longships Lighthouse with Cape Cornwall in the distance

Joe the Drone had a quick fly around here too, grabbing even more fantastic pictures.

Longships Lighthouse with Land’s End and Gwennap Head beyond

There was a bit of a divide in opinion between ‘which rock lighthouse we had seen that day was the best’. I would have chosen Wolf Rock, absolutely, because of its remoteness. The remoter the better in my opinion. Others, quite understandably, chose Longships because there was more to see around it. There’s no real right answer with these things, it’s just opinions, and different opinions are what makes the world a more interesting place.

We needed to get back in time for the second boat load to have a chance of getting out and back before the forecast bad weather arrived. Shooting along the coastline to Penzance, we took a brief stop at the Minack Theatre. I’d first become aware of this when I was into writing plays (and was actually working on one to be performed in the open air as part of my university course) and it looked amazing with that fantastic clifftop location. It was interesting to see it from the sea too as you get a view of the modern building that’s been constructed there that is apparently the changing rooms for the actors.

The Minack Theatre
The spectacular Logan Rock just to the east of the Minack Theatre

Nearing Newlyn, we stopped for a little longer on the way back to get some pictures of Tater Du Lighthouse. This one is quite impressive from the land, but it’s definitely better from the sea. The wonderful design of the lighthouse really stands out and the location at the bottom of the long flight of steps is just perfect. I appreciate this one a lot more now that I’ve seen it from this angle. It was also nice to see the walking route from Lamorna Cove which is a good route to take to it by land.

Tater Du Lighthouse

When you get back to Penzance by boat it’s very obvious where you are heading for as the lovely little white lighthouse sits on the end of the pier. It was a nice one to finish the trip with.

Penzance Lighthouse

Moments later we were alongside the pier and ready to swap with the second group. I’m pleased to report that they all made it out to both Wolf Rock and Longships too. Phew! 🙂

Continuing the Cornish clear up

I often find that for a long time many clusters of lighthouses I’ve not visited in a particular area remain fairly low on my priority list. It becomes one of those areas where I still have a fair amount to do, and I don’t go to any great lengths to remedy that. But then an opportunity arises and suddenly you see the possibility of actually being able to complete the list in a particular region, which is a very exciting prospect for someone as prone to ticking stuff off a list as I am.

This has certainly been the case with Cornwall on this trip. For many years my progress in the region has been at a standstill. It really doesn’t help when it’s at the opposite end of the country, of course. With life going at 100mph recently I’d not even had the time to look at what I had left to do in the region until I was on my way here. That was when I realised the potential for completion, if only things went to plan for the week…

With a boat trip postponed on Monday, it left a free day to make a start on what was left on my list. Unfortunately I awoke feeling rather unwell and hauling myself out of bed and getting ready for the day was far more of an effort than it should have been. For a while after that task was complete I felt ok, but it wasn’t long into the car journey that I began regretting my decision to leave the hotel.

It felt like an eternity in the car, heading east to get to Fowey, which was home to one of my remaining lights to visit. Prior to doing my proper research I’d been to Fowey and visited the lantern on a platform at St Catherine’s Point, but I’d missed the little Whitehouse Point light, also known as the ‘red rocket’.

Fowey Whitehouse Point Lighthouse, or the ‘red rocket’

Recognising that I wasn’t at my best, Bob did a great job of getting me as close as he could to the light, which was at the top of the short alleyway called Whitehouse, so it was just the shortest of walks to get there. Unfortunately though it just happened to coincide with a rather heavy rain shower. It was all fine though and was good to see this one up close.

The red rocket overlooking Fowey harbour
Fowey Whitehouse Point Lighthouse is bigger than it looks

At this point I was still longing for sleep, but being over halfway to Polperro I agreed to stick with the original plan or visiting the little lighthouse there. Another ferry beckoned – there seem to be so many of them – and a short while later we arrived in Polperro. With this one involving a bit more walking than at Fowey, Bob kindly offered to drive me as far as he could along the winding little streets of Polperro before I then proceeded on foot.

It was a very warm afternoon when sheltered by the houses so closely positioned on either side of the road, but as I emerged from the bustling streets and made my way up onto the coastal path, the views became much more open with some fantastic rock formations and clear, calm sea. It looks like a great place, when viewed from a distance, but is certainly popular judging by the number of people about.

A narrow street in Polperro once it had quietened down a bit
And finally out into much quieter surroundings
The wonderful views to the west at the entrance to Polperro harbour

There are plenty of opportunities for emerging scenic views as you wander up the coastal path. At one point a path looked to be heading off closer to the coast, but I carried on straight ahead as the map showed a loop I could take and views from higher up quite often are very rewarding. This was certainly the case at Polperro.

Looking down at Polperro Lighthouse

I spotted the path down towards the coast easily enough and then it didn’t take long before the lighthouse came into view. Zigzagging my way down, I reached the lighthouse.

Polperro Lighthouse

It’s a funny one as the look of it implies it’s petite and really quite sweet, but it is actually more substantial than that. When you are standing next to it you realise it’s not so small after all. It is a really unique design though and would be very difficult to confuse with any others in the UK once you had been there. It’s also incredibly old, in the nicest possible way, but in a very well maintained kind of way. As you can see from the picture, the structures dates back to 1911.

A great view of, and from, Polperro Lighthouse
Polperro Lighthouse up close

I took the direct route back which also offered slightly different views of the entrance to Polperro harbour.

The return view
Polperro harbour

Two lighthouses was definitely my limit for the day so it was back to the hotel room for me after that to get some sleep and hopefully recover enough for what was planned the following day 🙂

A long-awaited return to South West England

Living on the north coast of Scotland means I very rarely find myself travelling down to the West Country and so an Association of Lighthouse Keepers trip to Cornwall seemed a perfect opportunity to visit some of those not yet seen smaller lighthouses en route.

The first one was always going to be a tricky one. I’d heard that access to Lighthouse Beach at Kingswear was restricted, but I wanted to check to see if there was any change in the situation. I’d done a little bit of Googling and discovered that access to the beach had been closed to the public by the person building a house on the adjacent land. Their argument was that the beach was their private land and access has been restricted now for over 20 years, which has also been partly due to land slips in the area. There is a long document detailing the history of access to the beach and land ownership here. A local news story last September said it had been agreed by the local Council that public access to the land should be permitted, so I was keen to see if this had happened since.

A first view of Kingswear looking up the River Dart from Dartmouth Harbour

Kingswear is a very picturesque place to visit with lots of your typical West Country narrow streets and lovely little (and sometimes very big) houses lined along them. There are some great views of Dartmouth Harbour near the public car park and then you get some nice panoramic views over to Dartmouth with the coastal train line running into Kingswear as its final stop on the line from Dartmouth. The timing was rather good as a steam train appeared in the distance and pulled into the station as we were heading back to the car.

The steam train arriving

After traipsing the winding streets among expensive-looking houses and walled gardens (which I loved), I finally got the answer I was looking for. I think the picture below is the best way to describe it.

No luck at Kingswear

I was, of course, a bit disappointed, but actually surprised that it wasn’t possible to get any closer. My lighthouse friend John had previously been there and managed to get a distant picture through the trees, but there was no chance of that with the position of the fence – and definitely no way of getting around it.

The view beyond the barrier

All was not lost though as Joe the Drone was on hand and swung into action after dusting off his blades.

Kingswear Lighthouse, bottom left, from above

I knew our next stop of the day was likely to offer some distant views of the Kingswear Lighthouse anyway so I settled for that.

Ferry one of the day went between Kingswear and Dartmouth where we parked up and walked a fairly short coastal route along to Dartmouth Castle. As expected it did give some views of the light on the beach at Kingswear.

A wonky view of Kingswear Lighthouse from Dartmouth

Dartmouth Castle had been a bit of a puzzling one when I’d been working on my book. There was very limited information available to suggest that there once had been a lighthouse within the grounds of the castle and that the building still stands today. Luckily a knowledgable chap working at the castle was able to explain where it was. There is no access to the tower now and it’s current use is a store room, but it is attached to the back of the little cafe there. Although there was very limited time to explore, it was still good to wander around the castle buildings for a while and see which angle looked the best for getting views of the old lighthouse tower.

The best view of the old lighthouse tower at Dartmouth Castle

The next was, I’ll be honest, not the most exciting, but luckily didn’t involve much effort. My research had told me that the light at Mount Wise Pier in Devonport was the property of the MOD, but that it was still possible to get close to it. To see it properly meant heading down the spiral staircase to get a view from below.

Mount Wise Pier light from the side

I’d say the only interesting thing about this one is the remains of an old building and arches near the entrance to the pier.

Mount Wise Pier Lighthouse with the Scott Memorial behind

There’s a really nice memorial nearby to Devonport-born Robert Scott who led the British Antarctic Expedition to find the South Pole which led to Scott and the entire crew perishing on the return journey. It’s far more visually appealing that the light, I must say.

Reaching the final lighthouse of the day involved ferry number two, crossing the Hamoaze from Devon into Cornwall. After that there was one tiny narrow road after another to navigate to get to the Mount Edgcumbe area. One of these roads though provided points with stunning views looking down over Sango Island with Torpoint and Devonport beyond and the stretches of water separating all three.

Sango Island with Torpoint and Devonport beyond

The lighthouse at Hooe Lake Point, just to the east of Mount Edgcumbe Country Park, isn’t very well known and it is a little odd. It sits at the bottom end of a Scout campsite and required a quick hop over the gate.

Hooe Lake Point Lighthouse

This is probably one of the best vantage points for seeing the Plymouth Breakwater Lighthouse too, which always seems so far away from Plymouth when you spot it from the Hoe. It’s not exactly close to this point, but closer.

Hooe Lake Point Lighthouse with Plymouth Breakwater Lighthouse visible in the distance

It had been a busy day of bagging little and lesser known lights, but still a good one and one day hopefully I will make it to that tricky little Kingswear light 🙂

Have boat, will travel… to Eileanan Dubha

It had been a long 4 years since I’d last joined any Relative Hills Society (RHSoc) trips and with this year’s AGM a mere hop, skip and a jump away in Kintail in late May it would have been rude not to pop along and catch up with some good old friends from the 2014-2019 period covered in this previous reflections post of mine.

For me, the spare time during the few days in the area was reserved for exploring some nice walking routes both in Kintail and on Skye. There was also a couple of very successful boat trips to the Bracadale Islands and Soay from Elgol as well as an evening trip to Iosaigh on Loch Dunvegan. It was great to be back out on the water again with the chilled out ‘baggers of all things’ as a boatman once referred to them.

Rather fortunately one of the baggers, Jonathan, had purchased an inflatable boat with an outboard engine and, as the days progressed he was off out shipping people to otherwise inaccessible islands.

After passing through the Kyle of Lochalsh a good few times that week, the idea of getting a closer look at the little flat pack lighthouse on Eileanan Dubha East to the east of the Skye bridge crept into my mind. I approached Jonathan with this opportunity and he was happy to help out so I gathered interest from others wishing to head out during the RHSoc AGM and evening meal.

A merry band of us (or not so merry as was the case for myself and one or two others after one – or five – too many drinks the night before) gathered at Kyle of Lochalsh on the Sunday morning and Jonathan prepared our chariot for the short ride across to Eileanan Dubha East.

The skipper preparing the vessel

Off we set, two at a time, and the calm water and fresh air did wonders at bringing me closer to some sort of sensible state. It didn’t do a huge amount for my energy levels though as, once I’d navigated my way across the rocks to the lighthouse, that was where I stayed for the duration of the visit. I had to borrow pictures to help populate this post!

Eileanan Dubha Lighthouse

It was an excellent spot to just sit and watch as others made their way over and went off exploring whether the tide was low enough to get to one of the neighbouring islands in the Eileanan Dubha group. The glass-bottomed boat from Kyleakin went past at one point, with passengers enjoying watching the seals on another island – and probably wondering what we were up to as well.

Skye provides a dramatic backdrop to this little island

I clearly wasn’t the only one enjoying watching the world go by from that tiny island as the others, rather unusually, also took to sitting around, chatting and just generally enjoying that Sunday morning chilled feeling. Once we (or I) had mustered up some energy we used the opportunity to give the light a group hug, which went rather well. It’s always a fun activity to introduce people to and makes for some great pictures too, even if it is impossible to get everyone in the picture.

The lighthouse hug in action

Eileanan Dubha marks the east entrance to Kyle Akin, the relatively short stretch of water separating Skye from the mainland. At the west end of the Kyle is the now inactive Eilean Ban, or Kyleakin, Lighthouse which is very much overshadowed now by the bridge.

The lighthouse and Loch Alsh

Further along the Eileanan Dubh group is the teeny tiny Eight Metre Rock Lighthouse, or so it says anyway. In my view it’s a couple of little cabinets with a light on top of one of them, so doesn’t hold anywhere near as much interest.

Eight Metre Rock Lighthouse

With a journey back home ahead that day it was time to head back and bid a fond farewell to Eileanan Dubha East which had provided a little piece of calm and quiet on a day where it was very much needed 🙂